Tongariro National Park - A Place for Retreat

Tongariro National Park on paper is 78,618 hectares of forest and mountains, New Zealand’s most visited National Park and the first natural landscape to be labelled as a National Park in New Zealand and the fourth in the world. 

It is also a nerd mecca, where people who share Dwight Schrute’s dream of gazing on Mt Doom flock. Sometimes in cloaks. For authenticity.  

For people who like to sweat and develop sore calves, Tongariro is also a hiker's wet dream. There are walks that will take you days to complete or walks that can be done within a few short hours. 

For me, Tongariro is about retreat. It is where I go to escape from the noise of the city, commitments, and adulting. When I feel my capacity for handling bullshit has reached its limit, I seek this place out. Often I will rent one of the cabins located in Whakapapa Village. This spot is nestled right under Mt Ruapehu’s gaze and is also in the lahar path if an eruption arises. The risk is worth the peace. The cabin has five beds. I use one. The remaining beds remain empty but I am not lonely. I like the quiet. The cabin is nestled in a beech forest that is reminiscent of something found in the ink and paper of a Grimm Fairy tale. 

There is a desk by a grand window, which I am sitting at now as I write this, which overlooks a gnarled tree draped in lichen and moss. Tiny birds can often be found flittering around the branches. Small and precious. And watching this is something that quietens the mind. 

In winter, the air is frigid. It seems to invade everything. Any exposed skin quickly becomes numb when you step outside the warm cabin. It makes you want to retreat, but you move forward because outside is the promise of magic, wonder, and new discoveries. Restful warmth will come, but now you feel like finding something new. 

A walk begins at the end of the camp. 

It is a walk I know well. I have followed its path many times. Even though my feet know the way, I am always surprised by this walk. Be it from a new mushroom poking out from the soil to a bird song that enchants. There is always something a bit different. The walk is also very underrated. Many will have heard of the Tongariro Crossing, Tama Lakes, and maybe the Silica Rapids walk, but this walk is a short jaunt through the forest of Tongariro and I think it deserves a little bit more recognition. Especially for those who are more about the nature experience with their walks and less about step counts and bragging rights.

Another great thing about staying at Whakapapa Village is the TnT Kai Food Truck that sits out front. Slinging hot chips with tomato sauce, toasties and of course, coffee. Which I find adds an element of luxury to any camping experience. And let me tell you, those hot chips will be the best-tasting thing ever after doing a 3-hour or more hike in the park. They will seem like ambrosia sent down from the heavens. 

Sunset is an important time in the park as when it is a fine day, you will definitely not want to miss it.  My advice really is just to be outside at that time. The park is beautiful from most areas during sunset. My favorites are from the top of Bruce Road and outside Chateau. And if you are one of those nutty humans who can pull themselves out of bed for sunrise, sunrise is also an unforgettable experience in the park.