Tongariro National Park is the oldest National Park in New Zealand as well as being an UNESCO World Heritage Site. Tongariro was the first national park I visited in New Zealand and I have returned a handful of times since. Each time I visit, I am still blown away at the beauty that dwells here. From volcanos to lakes, waterfalls to streams. There is so much to see and do.

Tongariro National Park should definitely be on your list of where to visit in New Zealand and I hope that you find everything you need to know in this guide when you plan your next trip.

This guide will only include eco-friendly accommodation options, as well as more earth friendly activities. I believe that stepping lightly on the earth while travelling is important, so my guides reflect this ethos.

FACTS ABOUT TONGARIRO NATIONAL PARK

Location : Ruapehu District, New Zealand
Date Established: 1887 as a National Park
Size : 795.96 km2 (307.32 sq mi)
Managed by : Department of Conservation
Information Center : Tongariro National Park Visitor Centre
Nearest Town : National Park, New Zealand

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT

**Mt Ngauruhoe from Scoria Flats at sunset**

The great thing about this park is that it offers such different things with each of the seasons. The park is open all year round and every season brings something new to the table

Autumn is getting a little cooler, so camping is not recommended - unless you like frost bitten extremities in the morning

Winter is a very busy time at the National Park with the snow season officially opening up. Skiers and snowboarders flock to the area, and the whole area is bustling

Spring is a great time to visit as the temperatures get a little warmer and the alpine plants start to flower

Summer is a great time to visit to do the Tongariro Crossing. It is not as busy at Whakapapa village as in winter, but still sees some crowds due to hikes in the area

My favorite time to visit is during the summer or just before snow season opens up. You beat the snow crowd but still get to enjoy the more mild temperatures. But, if you are into snow and wish to be here during that time, winter will be your best bet. If the Tongariro Crossing is your aim, then summer.

HIKES IN THE TONGARIRO NATIONAL PARK

There are a lot of hikes in the Tongariro National Park. Ranging from easy family friendly adventures to extreme day or multi-day hikes. Basically, there is something for everyone wanting to go out and explore the park. I have listed some of the walks below separated according to difficulty, along with distance. Evaluate your own abilities before picking one or two or more of the below.

Some hiking do and dont’s in the Park

Some Do’s

-For walks, especially all day treks - it is a good idea to pack toilet paper as the toilets on the trails do not have any.

-Pack enough food and water for the walk. High energy snacks such as nuts, dried fruit, bliss balls and peanut butter, will act as valuable fuel for your body as you hike.

-Dress and pack for all conditions. The weather can change very quickly in the park, so even if it looks sunny - pack wind and waterproof gear. Wear sunscreen, a hat and sunglasses.

-Wear appropriate footwear - the jandals will not cut it for these walks. Many will require at least running shoes, but even better - hiking boots.

-Enjoy yourself. This is a very special and beautiful place in New Zealand. Enjoy it wholly and be there in the moment.

Some Don’ts

-Do not litter - there are no bins on the walks, so bring your rubbish back with you

-Do not stray from the path - all around the walkway is an important ecosystem. Walking on this, will cause harm.

-Do not bring your dog - this is a no dog zone.

Easy

Mounds Walk - A very short 10 minute walk to a viewpoint where you can see the mounds, thought to be debris from past eruptions. Begins 5km below the National Park Visitor Centre on SH48. Small carpark on side of the road next to and opposite walk’s entrance. The walk offers great views on a clear day.

Tawhai Falls - Track begins 4km below the visitor centre. Carpark on side of the road. Short 10 minute walk to the waterfall, return is same track. Waterfalls are 13m high and quite beautiful. This spot was used for a scene in LOTR (Lord of the Rings) as Gollum’s Pool. The track is well maintained.

Ridge Track - Track starts at 150 metres above Visitor Centre and is a short 30-40min return walk, depending on pace and it is all up hill. Starts in beech forest, but opens to more tussock, path is well maintained Views from the top are beautiful on a clear day, being able to see Mount Ruapehu, and Ngauruhoe. Can also see the chateau, which looks great when lit up.

Silica Rapids - The track starts at 250m above the visitor centre and has a very small carpark at the start. Relatively flat track with a few stairs thrown in. Travels through diverse landscapes, from beech forest to tussock to volcanic. The silica rapids are located near the end of the walk, which is creamy white from volcanic activity. On clear days, can see the mountains at some points of the walk - especially when just leaving the forest and entering the tussock. Walk is 2.5 hours return and you can either return to the start via Bruce Road or go back the way you came from. I would recommend the latter, simply because it is more scenic and less road walking

Whakapapa Nature Walk - This is a very short 15min loop track that will give you a taste of what the national park is all about.

Taranaki Falls - Track starts 100 metres below visitor centre on Ngauruhoe Place. There is a small carpark at the start of the walk. The walk is a 2 hours 6km return loop. There are a few stairs that can be a bit difficult, but for the moderately fit I think this walk will be fine. You travel through beech forest and tussocks, and on a clear day will have amazing views of Mount Ruapehu, and Ngauruhoe. The track eventually reaches the impressive Taranaki Falls, an impressive 20m waterfall. You then continue the loop, back to the start. I would recommend doing this walk anti-clockwise, so taking the upper track first at the end of Ngauruhoe Terrace. This is to avoid going up an impressive staircase to reach the top of the falls.

Mangawhero Falls Walk - This is a very short 5-10 minute return walk to see a beautiful 28m high waterfall. Walk starts 16 km up Ohakune Mountain Road. In winter, icicles can form around the waterfall, which makes for a great sight. This was a filming spot for the Lord of the Rings.

Waitonga falls - This is the highest waterfall in the National Park. It is an 1.5 hour return walk through beech and kaikawaka forest as well as an opening boardwalk section. On clear days, you may have views of Mt Ruapehu reflected in the Rotokawa pools in the tussocks. Walk starts on Ohakune Mountain Road.

Lake Rotokura - Starts 12km from the town of Ohakune, on Karioi Station Road. It is an easy 30 minute return walk, it takes 5 minutes to get to the dry lakes. Despite their name, there is plenty of water. And a further 10minutes to get to Lake Rotokura. On a clear day, Mt Ruapehu will be reflected on the lake. This lake is sacred to the local iwi, so no eating or fishing allowed. There are picnic tables at the dry lake, which you may eat at.

MODERATE WALKS

Tama Lakes - This walk forks off from the Taranaki Falls. It can be a bit tough at some points, especially if you choose to see the upper Tama Lake. It is a 17km loop and takes around 5-6hours, I managed to do it in around 6 and I am moderately fit. The views are worth the slog, with the lower and upper tama lakes being at the end. I only visited the lower lake, as I couldn’t manage the 200m or so incline to the top viewing area. The lower lake is beautiful though. Not to mention all the scenery you see on the walk itself. You can also go down to the lakes, but there is no track and the descent is via a steep gully. Windproof clothing is recommended on this walk, and pack for all weather as the conditions can change very quickly.

Hard Walks

Tongariro Crossing - This is a world famous walk. When our border were open, hundreds of thousands of people did this crossing every year. When I did it a couple of years ago, there were a line of people behind and in front of me as far as the eye could see. The crowds did detract from the experience a little, but it is still an amazing walk. The walk takes around 9 hours, so it is best to leave early. It is not a loop, so best to also arrange transport with a shuttle service.

Around the Mountain - A 66km loop that takes 4-6 days. This walk takes you on a loop of Mount Ruapehu and traverses varied landscapes from volcanic to tussock land, alpine herb fields and beech forests. You stay at a number of huts along the walk, and the walk can be carried out either clockwise or anti.

Northern Tongariro Circuit - This is a Great Walk and is a 43km loop that takes 3-4 days, or 2 for very fit people. It will have you be exploring volcanic landscapes, forests, snowfields, tussocks and alpine herb-fields. You will see the emerald lakes or Ngarotopounamu, lakes that have a green hue from volcanic debris and the sun. Huts are located around the circuit - these need to be booked in Great Walk Season ((22 October 2021 – 30 April 2022) and outside of this, it is first come, first served. If wanting to do this walk outside of the great walk season, you need to be an experienced tramper and be properly equipped as it is an alpine envionrment with snow and ice.

BEST PHOTO SPOTS IN TONGARIRO NATIONAL PARK

Tongariro is pretty scenic, so you won’t be starved for choice when it comes to where to take photos. below are some spots that I think are great photography spots in the park

Bruce Road - Drive up to the ski-field carpark, or pull over at Scoria Flats, where there are beautiful views of the mountains and the world below. Best at sunrise, especially on a slightly cloudy day as you will have a blanket of clouds beneath you which adds an ethereal feeling to photos. Road can be closed depending on conditions, so check online or the signs before the drive to see what the conditions are

Taranaki Falls - Beautiful at sunrise, but really scenic any time of the day really. Especially makes for some mysterious photos when the fog has rolled in a little

Tama Lakes - Gorgeous view point of the lakes as well as mountains on a clear day. Would not recommend for sunrise or sunset, just because you do not want to be trekking this in the dark unless very experienced tramper. When snow has fallen, the lakes look especially wonderful

Ridge Walk - The Ridge Walk is a short walk to get some pretty good elevation. Best at sunset or sunrise

Outside the Chateau by Golf Course - Park out in front of the golf course and snap away. Mount Ngauruhoe will be right in front of you on a clear day

Waitonga Falls - A gorgeous waterfall that makes for great photos. But the spot I spent the most time at was the Rotokawa pools. This was on the walk to the waterfalls. This spot on a clear day offers beautiful views of the mountain and with them reflecting in the pools. Sunrise is a great time to visit this spot, as the sun slowly peaks over the mountain.

WHERE TO STAY IN TONGARIRO NATIONAL PARK

CAMPING

There are quite a few low cost camping options in and around the park.

Mangahuia Camp : DOC campsite on the edge of the National Park off SH47. All modes of camping allowed, but as the sites are not too large, I would not recommend house trucks or busses. Seperate areas for tenting and caravans, with bushes to seperate each area which offers privacy. Longdrop toilet facilities that are rather clean and well taken care of and often have toilet paper. Non-potable water, must boil before use. $15 per adult per night, $7.50 for children, and free with DOC camp pass in suitable season. Bookings need to be made online. No dogs or fires.

Mangawhero Camp : Another DOC run campsite, this one located 2km from the township of Ohakune, Suitable for all camping modes. This is a smaller campground, compared to Mangahuia. Long drop toilet facilities, as well as non-potable water. No fires or dogs. Same prices as previous camp and must be booked online.

Whakapapa Village - A bit more pricer, but this camp is located right in the midst of the National Park, so makes for a perfect spot for hiking and exploring the area. This camp also has hot showers, flushing toilets, a laundry and a kitchen. You can book a powered, or unpowered site, or splash out and get a cabin. Best spot to base yourself, if you are wanting to do a few hikes in the area - as many of the walks are walkable from this campsite.

Kiwi Cash Carpark (The Park and Ride) : Located in the nearby town, National Park, this is a large carpark that has been opened up for people to park up in vans and campervans to stay for the night, or more. There is a secured parking area, which costs $10 using the Kiwicash swipe card. This is purchasable from the nearby, Station Cafe. The toilets, water, and dumping station are free to use, as well as the WIFI. But you will need to pay for the showers ($2 for 5mins), dishwashing stations (.50c for $2 mins) and the hot tops for cooking. There is also a laundry room, which costs $4 for each cycle.

LODGINGS

There is a plethora of different accommodation options in the park, from hotel to alpine chalet to Airbnb. I will be sharing a few that embrace an eco ethos.

Tongariro Crossing Eco Retreat - National Park - This is an Airbnb that is eco-conscious and offers an off-the-grid experience. It is a 3 bedroom well insulated home located on 10 acres of native bush. You are free to wander and see native plants and birds.

Night Sky Cottage - A beautiful cottage that has a sky-roof in the lounge so you can enjoy the night sky from the comfort of the couch. There is also dual baths facing a window. Perfect spot for either a cosy night with that special someone, or a selfcare solo date. The place has a gold Qualmark, which means that it meets a number of important envionrmental criteria, such as being aware of discharge and waste and being energy efficient. They collect their own wastewater, offer a compost bin for food scraps, offer reusable bags for your shopping and their bathroom products are 100% natural. It is not cheap - but may be an option for a very special occasion.

Plateau Lodge - Good spot for basing oneself for doing the Tongariro Crossing, they have a range of accommodation options from shared lodgings to private bedrooms. There is also a spa to relax those tired muscles after the hike. There eco-pledges include avoiding using single use condiments and toiletry packages, using motion sensor lights in the bathroom, and energy efficient light bulbs.

Rua Awa Lodge - While not the closest accommodation to the park being a 30 minute drive, it is a eco friendly option. Their environmental practices include composting, using eco cleaning products, and offering local food, such as a local bottle of wine. They offer yoga classes as well as kitchen workshops that place an emphasis on nutritious food. Their is an outdoor bath, a cozy home and views of the mountains on a clear day.

The Treehouse, Raetihi - A house in the trees with an outdoor bath, what more could you ask for really. No cooking facilities, but a kettle and a small fridge - so pack some ramen and the snacks and enjoy.

HUTS

There are quite a few huts in the National Park available for hikers to rest their weary bones at after many hours of walking. Huts have mattresses and beds, non-flushing toilets, fireplaces and non-potable water.

Waihohonu Hut - A hut that can be accessed via the round the mountain trek or the Tongariro Northern Circuit. Hosts 28 people and needs to be booked during the Great Walk Season (22 October 2021 – 30 April 2022), outside of the season - first come, first served. Prices will also vary according to the season.

Blyth Hut , Mangaehuehu Hut, Mangaturuturu Hut, Rangipo Hut, and Whakapapaiti Hut - Are huts that is part of the round the mountain trek. They need to be payed for using the Hut Ticket system. Hut Tickets can be brought from service centres and are either $15 for a serviced Hut or $5 for an unserviced hut. You purchase the needed tickets and when you arrive at the hut, place them in the honesty box at the hut.

Lupton Hut - A privately owned 8 bunk hunt near Blyth Hut.

Mangatepopo Hut, Oturere Hut, part of the Northern Tongariro Circuit. Need to be booked during Great Walk season, otherwise first in, first served and payed via hut tickets.

Whangaehu Hut - This is a hut owned by New Zealand Alpine Club located high beside the Whangaehu valley on the slopes of Mount Ruapehu. Members pay $10 a night, non-members $20. Not bookable, you kind of just have to see if anyone is there. Sleeps eight.

FLORA AND FAUNA

If you are a bird nerd, you are in luck. Tongariro National Park has a lot. You may see whio on the rivers, they prefer the pristine fast flowing rivers found in these parts, listen out for the male’s whistles. You may see Karearea flying or perched above the tree line, looking out for prey. Small forest birds, such as riroriro (grey warbler), miromiro (tomtit), piwakawaka (fantail), titipounamu (rifleman) flitter in the beech forests. Kahu or Swamp Harriers soar over the roads, and the park is a kiwi zone, with the North Island brown kiwi living in these parts. Walking through the more boggy land, such as the Silica Rapids walk, you may be able to hear the elusive fernbird or mātātā.

If plants tickle your fancy, there are lots of interesting plants to gawk at. There are mountain daises that bloom in the warmer months, mountain buttercups, and white foxgloves. The forest is home to beech trees as well as the uniquely twisted trunks of the kaikawaka or mountain cedar. As you walk, you may come across a sign the says look up - mistletoe, there is native mistletoe in these forests that bloom red flowers in Dec- Jan. In the wetlands, you may see the delicate flowers of the sundew.

The park is rich with very unique and special forms of life.

WHAT TO DO

For the Adventurous

Skiing or Snowboarding at the snowfields during the winter season either at Whakapapa Ski field or Turoa Ski Area, the latter has the highest chairlift in Australasia, the Highnoon Express.

After, grab a coffee at New Zealand highest cafe, Knoll Ridge Chalet at the Whakapapa Ski field. At 2km above sea level, you will be treated to amazing views while you warm up with your hot drink.

In summer, there are short walks you can do from the sky waka. The meads walk is a short 30 minute return walk and offers amazing views. It was also used to film several scenes from lOTR.

If snow is not your thing, there is also Tongariro River Rafting where you can white water raft 60 rapids in a 13km stretch. This is the most rapids in one stretch in any place in New Zealand.

For the Family

There are many walks that are family friendly in the park.

When the snow season kicks off, or during the summer months, ride the Sky Waka Gondala Ride. This sky gondala travels 1.8km up Mt Ruapehu.

need to upload - mangawhero camp - June 2021-12.jpg

Have the little ones learn how to ski at The Happy Valley learner’s area in Whakapapa Ski Field or get lessons

Tongariro River Rafting has family friendly rafting where you can spot whio or the blue duck and paddle along the Tongariro River. Afterwards warming up with a hot drink and a soak in the hot pools.

For the nature lover

Simply step outside in the National Park and you will be in a nature paradise. there are so many walks to try out while here, to get you up close and personal with nature. See the hikes section for more info.

The Tongariro River Rafting also has a Blue Duck Experience. This eco-adventure will have you navigating the same grade-3 Tongariro River, but with pitstops on the way. this will see participants walking the trap lines and checking the traps, as part of the Blue Duck Project . You will also learn a lot about the whio during this experience.

For the food and coffee lover

Get a caffeine fix at TnT Pataka Coffee-Food Truck, the coffee cart outside the Whakapapa Campground. They have great coffee and chai as well as fried food and slices.

Try the buffet at the The Pinnacles Restaurant up at the Whakapapa Ski Field. You can grab a great gondala and meal deal during the summer months at this place, and who can go past a buffet?

Grab a coffee at the hightest cafe in New Zealand.

NEARBY TOWNS

Ohakune

Ohakune is on the southern side of Tongariro National Park. It is home to a giant carrot statue, good coffee and access to a number of hikes on the southern side of the park, including the Waitonga Falls.

National Park

Is a short ten minute drive from Whakapapa Village. It has a four square that has a decent selection of food, from ice creams and chips and canned goods. It is a tad expensive, being the only place selling supermarket goods in the area. There is a petrol station, numerous accommodation options and a park and ride.

Turangi

This town is located on the northern side of the park. It has numerous cafes, friendly locals, a big New World Supermarket to stock up on snacks, and the Tokaanu Thermal Pools, perfect place for a hot soak after a long day hiking.

Transport

There are a lot of shuttle services in the area that operate to help hikers with organising their Tongariro Crossing Experience.

Tongariro Crossing Shuttles offer transport not only for the Tongariro Crossing, but also for the Northern Circuit as will as day trips to Whakapapa Village. There is also National Park Shuttles, which is a family owned business that handles transport for the Tongariro Crossing.

Many accommodation in the area also offer shuttle service to their guests.

How to Slow Travel Tongariro National Park.

Slow travel can be tricky when you are in a space with so much to do. There are mountains to see, hikes to do, lakes to marvel at and coffee to drink. There is a lot. Here are some of my tips on how to slow travel Tongariro.

Time - There is a lot to do in the National Park. A lot. So it can make the trip stressful if you either only come for a day or pack so much in on your trip that you start to forgot what you did the day before. Give yourself enough time to explore the area - a few days is better than one rushed day. A week if you can is even better. Or if you are only have a day, choose something to focus on for that day rather than trying to hit all the photo spots. Maybe its a walk. Or maybe its going on the gondala to explore up top. Choose something.

Eat Local - Local produce is everywhere around these parts. Between the towns of National Park and Ohakune, there is a little vegetable stall. Stop by, pick up some brussel sprouts, potatoes, or carrots and support the local farmers. There is a honesty box to pay for the vegetables at the stall. Definitely eat a carrot or two, the town of Ohakune is kind of known for these - check out their giant carrot monument if you are in the area.

Be present - When there is a million different things to do in the park, it is easy to be scattered and thinking of the next hike, next photo location, next activity. But doing this, you wont make memories that rest deeply within your mind. When doing something, try and be completely there in mind.

Set aside a whole day with no plans - When travelling, it is easy to carve out the whole day with plans and detailed itineraries. From the moment you walk up to the moment you go to bed. But this can lead to burn out. For one day in the park, plan nothing. Simply wander where you wish - maybe its to the cafe, maybe for a walk, maybe for something to eat. It could be anything.

Enjoy the small things - When you stop to smell the roses, it can lead to some of the most meaningful memories. So when traveling through the National Park, notice the sound of the river, the sight of the sun touching the mountain peaks or the taste of a coffee. Be present and enjoy the things that make up your day.

Learn - Going to the local iSite, or visiting the coffee cart outside Whakapapa village and having a chat with the barrister, can be a good way to pick up local knowledge. About where to eat, good hikes and the weather even.

SAFETY

The conditions in the Tongariro National Park can change within a blink of an eye. One moment, it may be all sunny days, the next gales that will knock you on your ass, hail and below freezing temperatures. It is important to be prepared for all weather conditions when hiking and exploring the National Park

Below are some tips that the Department of Conservation recommend -

Windproof and waterproof raincoat
Spare warm clothing
Boots or shoes suitable for the terrain (not sandals)
Enough food and water
First Aid Kit
Suncream, hat and sunglasses

Others I would recommend -

Tell someone of your plans - before you go
Warm socks
A beanie and gloves
A PLB - Personal Locator Beacon . You can hire these at iSites.

TAKE ONLY PHOTOGRAPHS, LEAVE ONLY FOOTPRINTS

It is very important that when you enter natural spaces, such as the Tongariro National Park, that you follow some basic principles that will ensure that the forest stays clean and intact.

There are no rubbish bins in the park - pack in, pack out principles apply

Dispose of waste water properly when camping - do not tip in in waterways, nor do you dishes in the stream.

Use the toilets that have been put in place for your use - do not throw toilet paper and tissues along the tracks.

Do not burn plastic - it creates harmful gases

Leave what you see in the park - do not take nature home as a souvenir

Follow the track - there is a precious and vulnerable ecosystem in this park - trampling on it will cause harm.

No dogs in the park

Respect Culture - There is cultural significance to local iwi in the park- pay heed to this

There are also the seven principles of Leave No Trace New Zealand, which are important to consider when entering any natural space in New Zealand.

The Green Travelling Guide to Tongariro National Park