Muriwai

Muriwai. A lazy hazy beach community on the west coast of Auckland. Known for wild waves and bejewelled expanses of black sand. All a glitter in the high sun up ahead. Visited by many from the city, looking for a place to slow it down for a beat. Surfers hunt for the perfect wave, dogs frolic along with their owners kicking up the salty surf. Children construct elaborate sand castles before delightfully destroying them. Picnics goers set up - sandwiches often becoming more sandy than what is wanted, and others simply bask in the sun like seals - wanting to get that perfect glowing tan. 

Muriwai Sunset

Muriwai is a place that everyone finds something to enjoy. For myself, that is the Muriwai Gannet Colony. Located high above the wild waves and ebony sand, is a colony of Australian gannets. They breed here at Muriwai every year, before returning to Australia around April. Some will find their mate here, others have already established a bond with another - one that has been formed years ago. Each will build a nest and raise a chick at this spot. When the chick fledges, the gannets leave this rocky home. And all that is left, is well, a rock face covered in gannet poop. There are also nesting white-fronted terns that live here. Though the terns have been pushed to the edges, to the pernicious cliff faces and jagged corners. But, they are lithe and small and these little spots are perfect for them. 

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Australasian gannet 

Everyone has their own experience at Muriwai Gannet Colony. I wish to share mine with you, reader. 

As I come over the ridge, I notice that the sky is alive with chaos. Gannets. I freeze, unable to move as I watch in wonder as hundreds upon hundreds of these beautiful birds swoop and glide above me. 

I notice that some have beaks filled with glistening seaweed, straight from the wild ocean below. Others have grass - long and dry sticking out all askance. All, a present to their awaiting mate on the ground. 

Gannets mate for life. Mostly. Divorce sometimes occurs, where one gannet decides they have had enough of the other and they part ways. But, mostly - gannets mate for life. And this mated lifestyle involves dancing.

Beaks cross - like swords parring. But, this is no war dance, rather it is a dance of familiarity; one signifying a bond. A bond that many of these gannets have kept year after year, returning always to this spot. To cross beaks and bend necks, and build nests and raise chicks. Together.

Two gannet mates greeting each other

And once the dance has paused, the gannet with his mouth filled with grass and wet seaweed will deposit them, carefully adding them to the nest just so.

Others tuck their eggs, neatly, carefully, under their wide webbed feet. They check and recheck their nests, moving a strand of grass two centimetres to the left, then back again, so everything is just right.

A gannet sitting on an egg

When neighbours move too close to their homes, their beaks open wide.

Two gannets being territorial of nest space

Sharp bills now become weapons, as they lunge and thrust at these too close interlopers.

I was enchanted watching the dramas and love affairs of these birds. So much so that I failed to notice the many people surrounding me. Some were peering down with curiosity, all agog with wonder at these beautiful birds. Some had cameras pressed tightly to their eye - not wanting to miss a single perfect pose or move. Children were yelling in excitement, buzzy with perpetual energy, pointing eagerly at all that they can see.

Teens arrive, they start off with a shuffle and crossed arms. Perhaps not wishing to be here, the beach with the wild waves and fun sand calling them, but slowly their arms fall and their faces lift as they gaze at the gannets all wild with flight and movement.

I overhear one girl exclaim that the birds are so fat. She draws out the word fat, feeling it on her tongue as she declares to the world her observation. I quickly hide my smile, ducking my head, my long hair acting as a curtain. Gannets are sleek and streamline, I would hate to see what she would say about our round shaped kiwis. 

And as they sun dips below the horizon, casting a warm glow on all - we all share this moment of wonder - for nature.

I retire with a warm feeling in my heart. Murawai will always be a place that I return to; that I am drawn to. To watch the gannets and feel connected to nature and all the people who have travelled to witness these wondrous birds. 

Come visit the next time you are in Auckland. So, you can make your own experience at this magical place.