Getting Steamy at Hot Water Beach

Dig. Dig. Dig. Those were my only thoughts as I put spade to sand at Hot Water Beach in Eastern Coromandel.

I was searching for hot water. Hot dreamy water to boil in.

The cool thing about this area is that a hot water river runs from the inner earth to the Pacific Ocean. You simply have to dig to find that hot water. You also have to come at a specific time and dig in a very specific area, all information that locals are happy to share with you.

Our camp host told us to venture out two hours either side of low tide and to look out for rocks in the sea. These rocks indicate where to dig on the beach.

So armed with that knowledge and a rented spade, we ventured out. To dig for hot water. Yes, a resource that can be found from a tap, but where is the fun it that.

A gannet in the surf

A gannet in the surf

When we arrived, there were already a lot of people set up in their temporary hot pools. A man lounging out like a King or a tiger in a very large hole, while smaller holes were scattered around.

As the true anti-social person that I am, I began digging a few meters away from the crowd. So the mantra of dig dig dig started as I slung cold sand behind me in this quest for hot water.

Shriving in the cool dusk air, I sighed as I once again was meet with cold or lukewarm water. Someone eventually took pity on our unsuccessful attempts, we had a sad scattering of small potholes all around us, as a lady in a Pikachu bikini called us over.

“Mind your step”, her companion told me as I carefully made my way into their impressive looking hot pool. “That spot is really hot”, he continued. I slowly edged my foot into the water feeling the heat straight away. Wow. That was hot. I couldn’t fathom how so many people were soaking in this molten, as I later learned the water could reach up to 64 degrees celsius.

The couple told us they needed help reinforcing their hot tub’s sand walls from the encroaching tide. So, we all dug in. Quite literally. Some used the spades, others their hands. An action quickly abandoned when they realised that digging hot sand with bare hands burns.

I glanced around, looking at all these people with spades digging away. All wishing to have just a moment of being able to sit down, watch the sunset and have their arse burned. Some were already soaking, but most were furiously digging away.

I turned back to Pikachu girl and company, and saw the wall coming together nicely. They turned to another group who had largely been unsuccessful in their hot water searching, and invited them to share the space. There was something lovely about the whole camaraderie of the space - while it was true, some people hogged the hot water and built mansion sized hot pools, most, were considerate. Digging just the space that they needed. And when they had had their soak, offering the space to another group. It warmed the cockles of my old heart watching that.

Pikachu girl and her partner soon gave us an adieu. They had reached their limit of hot water time and ran off into the cool ocean. Both with very red behinds. Not that I was looking. But, before they went they bestowed us the deeds to their hot water pool.

So. We were now home owners. And by home owners, I mean owners of a hole in the sand that was soon to disappear when the tide came up. But, that is as good as it was going to get in the current housing crisis. Am I right. (I deflect depressing prospects with humour. It is kind of my thing).

So. I finally sat down in my new abode. In my clothes and all. I am not a never nude, but sometimes I have a thing about wearing bikini bottoms around people. So. I sat down in my pants. Something that I would come to regret immensely at a later time. As walking back in wet pants in the chilly night air was not fun.

After a while, I felt a little like a boiled potato. The water steaming and my butt semi burning. But, it was incredibly relaxing simply soaking in a natural hot pool, watching the sun slowly dip below the surface. And all around me a hive of activity, as more and more people turned up to dig while others simply soaked like potatoes as well.

I looked around myself and could not help but laugh. We all looked a little loony. Digging for holes in a small space. Some people posing that infamous Instagram Pose in their holes, you know the I am looking into the distance and look mysterious as hell. Other’s were laughing in the sea. While still others were having a beer. On that note, do not drink or eat in the hot pools. Ngati Hei, are the tangata whenua (people of the land) of this area and it is disrespectful to do so. On a further note, also remember to use the toilets in the carpark and pick up any litter that you see.

It is true to a degree that Hot Water beach is madness and a bit of a tourist trap. And semi not enjoyable when it is crazy busy, it is still a unique and worthwhile experience. I would recommend coming early, as in sunrise, if the tides permit though.

A couple digging at Hot Water Beach

A couple digging at Hot Water Beach

Things to consider

Bring your own spade - or the local cafes and campgrounds rent them out. $5 plus a $20 bond at the Top 10 Holiday Park

Look at the tides. You want to be there two hours either side of low tide.

Be considerate. Don’t dig the biggest hole, if you don’t need to. There is only a small area that has hot water.

How to get here: It is around a 2 and a half hour car ride from Auckland.

There is a top 10 holiday carpark in the area which offers affordable camping and cabins for those who are not into the whole tenting thing.

Parking - There are three carparks along the beach. Two paid, one free. But, here is a little secret. In the last carpark, you may think the whole spot is paid. That is not the case. Park outside of the paid area, on the other side of the road. And it is free. Gloriously Free.

travel, Travelathena rhodes