The Search for North Island's Grey Ghost: The Kōkako
I have a tendency to become obsessed. Not in a “collect the hair of my crush and make a hair doll” kind of obsessed. More like, search for a type of bird for months just to get that one perfect moment with them. My obsession over the last few months has been the New Zealand bird, North Island Kokako.
Who is this?
For those who do not live in New Zealand, you may have never heard of this bird. Or you may have. Either way. Let me to you present the North Island Kōkako.
They are a bird that to me incites feelings of ancient New Zealand.
You will more than likely hear them before you see them - if you manage to spot one at all that is. Their call is haunting. Sombre and melancholic, the notes of their songs float through the forest. Their songs are often duets, a pair singing sweet nothings to each other through the dawn forest air.
Kōkako in flight.
They are poor flyers with small rounded wings. They much prefer to hop along the trees with their long springy legs. Reminiscent of a kangaroo. They are fast in this hopping movement - making it even harder to spot them.
In appearance they are dark grey/blue in body, with a mask of black across their eyes. Almost as they are wearing a bandit mask.
This is apropos as they did steal my heart……..
The most distinctive thing I suppose about them is the vibrant blue wattles hanging below their chin.
They often reside high in the tree tops (particularly in Tawa trees), feasting on juicy berries and leaves.
They are quite territorial birds as well. With a pair defending a specific large territory through their singing. They are known to have the longest known duet performance of any songbird in the world.
My Journey
Hopping along the branch.
One day, I said to myself I wish to see a Kōkako. I listened to their song on the DOC website (https://www.doc.govt.nz/nature/native-animals/birds/birds-a-z/kokako/) and I was entranced. I wanted to hear this song for myself. I wanted to meet these birds that looked like nothing I had ever encountered before. So, the obsession started.
First. I began with research. I researched the living heck out of this bird. Where did they like to be? What they liked to eat? Their behaviour? I went full on stalker mode for this bird.
After, the research stage. It was time to get out there and try and meet the elusive Kokako. From my research, I had gathered a few tidbits of information. One, they liked Tawa forests. Two, they liked berries. Three, they was most active at dawn. This was going to be hard for me - I am not a morning person. At all.
Tiritiri Matangi
Background - An Island in the Hauraki Gulf. It is a wildlife sanctuary that many native New Zealand species call home, including the Kereru, The Hihi, the bellbird, and of course, the Kokako.
Result: I did not get to meet any North Island Kokako. I was hopeful, as the island appeared like a spot that many people caught a glance or a picture of them. Got to hear on the ferry back people discussing how amazing it was to see the Kokako. I silently seethed……
Hunua Ranges
Background - A regional park in Auckland and the largest native forest in Auckland. In 1994, only one pair remained in the ranges, now with the aid of the Hunua Kōkako recovery project, the population has increased to 106 breeding pairs.
Result - No Kōkako. I saw a really big waterfall though. So, it was a half win for this day.
Pirongia Forest
Background - Pirongia once was a stronghold for Kōkako, but with the ravages of pests this number dwindled until the last remaining birds were removed in the 1990s. In 2017, 20 Kōkako were translocated from Pureora Forest to Pirongia. As of the last survey of these birds, their were found to be 45 pairs and six single birds.
Results - Being a Hamilton girl, this was my old stomping ground. I was ready to delve into the forest to try and hold a meet and greet with the Kōkako.
Unfortunately, they did not want to meet with me. Or they were just really busy that day. I went to Pirongia a number of times over a time span of a few months. Hiked low in the forest, and then even climbed a mountain to see if they were chilling higher up. This was the closest I got to seeing them. I heard their melancholy duet, saw flashes of blue, but nothing solid. I left hopeful.
Ark in the Park
Background - A community project in the West of Auckland that has been trying to rejuvenate native fauna and flora. Their are several kokako here.
Result - After driving all the way to Ark in the Park, I discovered it was closed to the public. The face I made should be used as the universal symbol for disappointment. A few tears may have also been shed.
Pureora Forest
Background - A lush rainforest, recognised as one of the finest in the world located near Taupo.
Result -
I was hopeful again going into this forest. It is a forest that many Kōkako are taken from to be translocated to other forests around New Zealand. This made me think that there would be a higher chance of seeing one here.
We camped on the outskirts of the forest. I shivered my way through the night (it was very cold and our tent resembled a stiff piece of ice in the morning, it was that frozen over) - that I ended up sleeping through my dawn alarm. Damn.
The walk through the Pureora forest was without a doubt beautiful. I saw a Miromiro and Piwakawaka. But, alas no Kōkako. A cold chill sweeps through my body. Did I have to become my worst nightmare to meet this elusive bird.
This being of course, a morning person.
The thought sent shivers down my spine. Disgusting.
Return to Pirongia Forest
A grand return to the place where it all began.
Not really - but felt like it. I had a special feeling about Pirongia. This feeling was incited from watching a video of two Kōkako having a conservation with their reflections in the Grey Street carpark up at Pirongia. This person had captured the moment I had been seeking for months. I needed to return to Pirongia.
Luckily at the time, I was staying nearby. A plan was hatched, 5am wake up to try and see these guys at dawn at Pirongia.
5am comes around and rolls past. I snooze the alarm. Around four times. I am not a morning person and even the call of the grey ghost is not enticing enough to get my heavy body out of bed it would seem.
I arrive at the carpark at 7am. Hardly dawn, but I am hopeful. Maybe the Kōkako had a hard morning as well. I walk around the carpark, peeking in bushes, behind trees. Basically creeping around. Luckily noone was around to witness this odd and highly suspicious behaviour.
After a while, I slumped down on a nearby picnic table. I was defeated.
Or was I.
A call was heard in the depths of the lush forest. A call I had heard only online and in my dreams for the last few months. It was the Kōkako. My breathe hitched and then paused. I become stiller than distilled water or Ben Stiller, or something equally as still.
Swoop.
Down from the tree tops a Kōkako flew. Small round wings, dark grey blue body, vibrant blue wattles. I was indeed looking at a Kōkako. I was ecstatic.
You know those moments that feel magic. Unworldly. That is the feeling I had when I witnessed the Kōkako swoop over my head, call out to their mate, hop along the branches and curiously check me out.
The wait was worth it.
How can you help the Kōkako?
The Kōkako is endemic to New Zealand, and while their numbers are recovering - they are still at risk.
But how can I help them out?
I am glad you asked. I feel like a lot of the time, you see or hear about tragedy or wildlife dying or numbers dwindling, and you feel helpless. Have no idea how you as an individual can help.
With the Kōkako there are a number of ways you can help.
Donate
There are a number of trusts around New Zealand who are leading the charge on Kōkako recovery. Donating to them can aid in their work.
Some examples of these are:
Mt Pirongia Restoration Society - who are working to restore Pirongia forest to what it once was. Your donation can help with a number of things that they need aid in. More can be found on their website.
Tiritiri Matangi - There are two ways to donate to Tiritiri Matangi. You can become a supporter by donating $25 a month. This donation comes with a number of perks which can be found on the website. Or if that is not for you, you can give a on off donation.
Volunteer
You can volunteer with Kōkako conservation projects around New Zealand. Mt Pirongia Restoration Society looks for volunteers to aid with a number of activities, such as native planting, releasing of animals, and bird monitoring. Sign up can be found on their website.
Hunua Ranges Kōkako Recovery Project - look for volunteers to help out on Tuesdays. With this project, you work at helping reduce pest numbers.
Tiritiri Matangi - You can aid in a number of ways on this island that many Kōkako call home. This includes as a guide for vistors, working at the shop on the island, or general volunteer duties such as pruning, and track maintenance.
Ark in the Park - looks for volunteers to help with bait and trap lines.
Spread the word.
Talk about how awesome kōkako are with your friends and family,